Oaxaca City Guide

Oaxaca City Guide

Sat amongst arid surroundings in the state of Oaxaca in the south of Mexico is the state’s eponymous capital. Many head to the state in search of sand, sea and sun rays but this compact city is well worth visiting in its own right. The buildings that line the streets of the city centre are amongst the finest examples of Spanish colonial architecture in the country. Gorgeous colourful facades house everything from innovative artwork to historical artefacts to some of the most delicious food that money can buy. Shaded squares and glorious churches are dotted throughout this small city. Its relatively small size makes it the ideal place to wander around for adventurous spirits, with plenty to discover whilst travelling from A to B. The culinary scene in Oaxaca is often renowned as amongst the very best in Mexico and after visiting the food stalls here it is abundantly clear as to why. Oaxaca is a city that has everything that a traveller could possibly want but somehow simultaneously retains a small town charm that is so often lost by other growing cities.

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Oaxaca's Best Spots

Despite its relatively small size, Oaxaca is not only home to an appealing range of different things to do but also possesses an intriguing variety between the character of its different neighbourhoods. Some are tourist-friendly hubs of activity. Some are more authentic and colloquial in their quaint appearance. Whether you only wish to see the city’s main sights or possess a desire to delve a little deeper into the heart of the city’s character, Oaxaca can cater to your needs. Due to its compact layout, Oaxaca also allows you to experience all of this at once, with busy tourists hotspots and unspoiled peaceful escapes all within walking distance of each other.

Santo Domingo

Perhaps the most iconic building from Oaxaca’s wide selection, the Church of Santo Domingo is a stunning example of Baroque architecture and somewhat of a hub of social activity to the north of the city’s centre. The church’s grounds are home to a collection of quaint courtyards and rooms that were once the monastery. The city’s history is palpable in the area around Santo Domingo, with cobbled streets and ornate facades lining every street. What were once colonial homes have since made way for upmarket cafes and charming galleries that satiate the wants and needs of the city’s tourists and middle classes. In front of the church are a number of stalls selling high quality handmade trinkets as well as all of the typical Mexican souvenirs.

Behind the Church of Santo Domingo are the botanical gardens, which aren’t like most gardens of its type but instead house a collection of flora endemic to the surrounding desertous climate, including towering cacti alongside tranquil waterpieces. The gorgeous squares at the rear of the church also house the Oaxacan Museum of Cultures. The museum covers the entire history of the state, drawing parallels between past and present to outline the cultural influences of the citizen’s predecessors. A short walk from this cluster of cultural delights are a collection of unpretentious street food stalls selling all of the region’s tastiest specialities, including mole, a dish associated solely with the state of Oaxaca.

Top Tip!

If the crowds of the city centre become a little overwhelming, just to the north of the Church of Santo Domingo lies the perfect sanctuary in the form of El Llano Park. Formerly a zoo, the park consists of a number of stone courtyards and tall trees which create not just a sense of serenity but also a delightful cool that perfectly combats the midday heat of summer.

The Zocalo Area

The zocalo, or town square, is somewhat of a focal point for locals in Oaxaca. Crowds of Oaxacans flock to the area once siesta time is over and the day cools down, making for a family friendly atmosphere and a real sense of community. The square itself has all the hallmarks of any great Latin plaza, with atmospheric archways lining the sides as furniture from various restaurants and bars spills out onto the square in a sociable buzz under the warming glow of the setting sun.The square itself is the best place in the city to go for a sociable drink in the evening. Occasionally the bandstand, which acts as a centrepiece for the square, plays host to traditional Mexican bands, who serenade the crowds with their lively tunes.

Within three blocks of the zocalo to the east and north respectively are the Textile Museum and Contemporary Art Museum. The former is considered one of the greatest sights in the city, displaying the mastery of Mexican textile construction in both its historic and contemporary forms. The museum is set in a gorgeous refurbished mansion, which once functioned as part of the orchard of the local convent. Exploring the building is an experience in itself, let alone admiring the textile treasures that are displayed within. Set within the canvas white walls of a restored colonial building is Oaxaca’s Contemporary Art Museum, displaying an eclectic array of work by local artists. The museum offers an insight into the ways in which the Mexican art scene is developing in the modern era. To the south of the zocalo are two indoor markets. To the north is Mercado Benito Juarez, which sells locally made trinkets and textiles. Further south is Mercado 20 de Noviembre which sells all manner of Oaxacan street food.

Top Tip!

Head to Mercado 20 de Noviembre to try the carne asada, or grilled meat, that is on offer here. After heading down a smoky corridor flanked with vendors selling a variety of different cuts of meat by the kilo. Pick your cut and take a seat on one of the benches, where you will have the softest flour tortillas and freshest selection of accompanying fillings brought to you as your meat is grilled to perfection. It is the Mexican food scene in its most brilliantly simplistic and utterly delicious form.

Jalatlaco

Perhaps Oaxaca’s best kept secret, Jalatlaco is a thoroughly picturesque little neighbourhood found a short walk to the northeast of Centro. The area appears as though paused in a more peaceful time, with barely any traffic running through its network of picturesque cobblestone streets and colonial housing painted in every vibrant colour imaginable. It is urban Mexico at its most genuinely beautiful and authentically charming.

At the heart of Jalatlaco is the Church of San Matias Jalatlaco, whose simple yet charismatic stone facade is almost symbolic of the neighbourhood in which it stands – quaint and peaceful. The laid back charm of Jalatlaco has led to the neighbourhood’s inevitable development into Oaxaca’s most artsy region, attracting a crowd of alternative thinking individuals who have in turn morphed many of the area’s shops and eateries into a more ethical breed of establishment. Jalatlaco is the place to go for organic produce, vegan restaurants and environmentally friendly cafes. The increase in edgy residents has also resulted in a number of beautiful murals with a strong Mexican influence gracing the front of many of Jalatlaco’s buildings. This modern influence on the area is not to say that it is lacking in genuine Mexican flare, as many of the local women sell traditional street food outside their front doors.

Top Tip!

Whilst Jalatlaco spends almost the entire year in a state of drowsy peacefulness, it really comes to life at the end of October when the Day of the Dead celebrations begin. Oaxaca is deemed one of the best cities in the country to experience this centuries old festival for passed loved ones and Jalatlaco is considered one of the best neighbourhoods in which to immerse oneself in the celebrations, which take the form of colourful parades, skeletal costumes and plenty of partying.

Reforma

To the north of Oaxaca’s centre lies Reforma, which is much like a city in and of itself. Trading the historic structures of Oaxaca for the more modern builds that one would associate with the more prosperous neighbourhoods of Mexico City. The area is wealthier than most in Oaxaca and this becomes immediately evident when wandering through the area’s wider streets, lined with international eateries, artistic bakeries and niche cafes aplenty.

Unlike the Santo Domingo and Zocalo areas, Reforma tends to be relatively tourist-free, as the neighbourhood is as off the beaten track as it is modern. This in turn can lead to a more genuine experience of Mexican life. To the north of Reforma is an interesting landmark in the form of the Fountain of the Eight Regions, which has a traditionally dressed statue for each of the eight indigenous cultures whose influence has helped sculpt the city into the place that it is today.

Top Tip!

A short walk to the west of southern Reforma is Xochimilco, the oldest neighbourhood in the city. The area’s village-like atmosphere is thanks in part to the fact that it is the hub of the city’s textile industry, with a number of local artisans selling handmade wares from their quaint studios. The area’s stone aqueduct is also a draw, forming a number of picturesque archways, or arquitos, to the south of Xochimilco.

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Food & Drink in Oaxaca

Oaxacan food is the stuff of legend, not only in Mexico but amongst culinary masters across the world. The flavours of the state’s classic dishes are often unpredictable but expertly prepared in a fusion of flavour unlike any other. Oaxacan food options also include national classics that have been expertly concocted with a passionate knowledge of traditional Mexican cookery. There is no shortage of places in Oaxaca from which to sample the delectable street food which has seen the city gain its renown as one of the country’s greatest gastronomic hotspots.

Mole

A Oaxacan classic that has been adopted by other cities across Mexico, but nowhere has quite mastered mole like the city of its origin. More of a genre of food than a specific recipe, mole refers to a savoury sauce that comes in a variety of different flavours, each with its own corresponding colour. Examples include mole negro made with chocolate, mole rojo with a spicier taste and the fragrant, curry-like mole amarillo. The sauces are typically poured over tender cuts of chicken, pork or beef and served with tortillas for mopping up.

Carne asada

Simply translated as “grilled meat”, carne asada typically consists of thin cuts of fresh pork or beef that has been marinated overnight in flavoursome sauces with a hint of spice to them. These cuts of meat are then grilled over hot coals until cooked to perfection, before being served with tortillas and an assortment of sides including guacamole, salsa and nopal – an edible cactus. Pasillo de Carnes Asadas – “Grilled Meat Passage” – in Mercado 20 de Noviembre is famous for its expert meat grillers, who have been plying their trade for generations.

Tlayudas

Another dish that emerged from Oaxaca, tlayudas are often compared to a Mexican take on pizza, but the comparison doesn’t do this classic street food justice. Tlayudas are prepared by starting with a large crispy tortilla that is topped with pork lard and spiced refried beans for a hearty base. This is then topped with all manner of Mexican deliciousness, including chicken, chorizo, dried beef, cabbage, avocado and queso Oaxaca – a traditional mozzarella-like cheese found in the state. Amongst the heartiest of Mexican meals, tlayudas are sure to fill up even the greediest of travellers.

Enfrijoladas

Enfrijoladas are an accurate reflection of Mexico’s love of beans. This hearty classic consists of tortillas being covered in a sauce consisting of refried beans and fresh chipotle peppers. These tortillas are then filled with cheese and occasionally chicken or chorizo before being folded over and coated in yet more bean-based sauce. The ultra saucy wraps are then baked and topped in avocado, sour cream and herbs. The secret to making the perfect enfrijolada is in the sauce, which is incredibly flavoursome despite its simplicity and offers just enough of a kick to keep your tongue tingling.

Chapulines

Wandering through Mercado de Benito Juarez, travellers will likely cross paths with this alternative Mexican favourite – deep fried grasshoppers. With a spicy kick and somewhat satisfying crunch, these crispy invertebrates have proven a popular taco filling for decades in Mexico, as well as a simple on-the-go snack. They may seem unappealing to many but grasshoppers are an environmentally friendly source of protein that has been forecast as one of the foods of the future. Once you look past their appearance they make a tasty snack.

Empanadas

Oaxacan empanadas are an appealing Mexican take on the South American classic that combines a truly Oaxacan taste of the former with the hearty homeliness of the latter. Whilst classic empanadas typically lack in genuine spice, those found in Oaxaca are traditionally filled with spiced chicken and mole amarillo, giving the filling an aromatic flavour that packs a punch. The pastry shell and small size of empanadas make them an ideal on-the-go snack.

Enchiladas

A Mexican staple with a Oaxacan twist. Classic Mexican enchiladas vary in preparation but usually consist of a tortilla dipped in chilli sauce and wrapped around meat, cheese or local vegetables. The Oaxacan version trades the chilli sauce for mole rojo. Made with chocolate, chipotle chillies and ground nuts, the mole sauce offers a different kind of spice and flavour that marries a national classic with a regional specialty for a unique dish that cannot be found elsewhere.

Mezcal

The delicious alternative to its more famous cousin, tequila, mezcal is a spirit primarily associated with Oaxaca due to the large quantities distilled there. Distilled by almost the exact same process as tequila, mezcal tastes much the same and its popularity is growing rapidly. Mezcalerias are becoming more common throughout Mexico, with a number open in Oaxaca until the early hours of the morning. Attending a mezcaleria is a great experience that can be taken to the next level if attending a mezcal tasting session.

Getting around Oaxaca

Oaxaca is a relatively small city, with the majority of the main sites all within a few blocks of eachother. This means that the vast majority of the city’s visitors simply opt to walk between destinations, absorbing Oaxaca’s energetic spirit and picturesque streets as they go.

Those that wish to rest their legs or want to travel a little further afield can opt to travel by taxi or colectivo – a taxi shared with others travelling in the same direction. Minibuses to popular sites such as Monte Alban leave relatively frequently, but be sure to check times when planning your journey to such locations.

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Alternative things to do in and around Oaxaca

Situated in the dry basin of a foliage-capped valley, the rugged terrain surrounding Oaxaca City is an intriguing canvas of golden browns and verdant greens. Being one of the biggest producers of mezcal in the country, the land is often scattered with the spiked form of the agave plant. Amongst this archetypal Mexican landscape are a number of sites of great interest, from pre-Colombian hilltop cities to quintessential Latin townships to remarkable natural phenomena.

Exploring the ruins of Monte Alban

An absolute must for anyone visiting Oaxaca. The ruins of Monte Alban are amongst the most underrated in all of Mexico. Situated on the peak of a hill overlooking the city to the east and valleys to the west, Monte Alban is a lot quieter than sites such as Chichen Itza or Teotihuacan but the same mystical aura resonates from each and every ancient brick on site. The site also offers the opportunity to climb the steps of its ruinous pyramids to gain an aerial view of the entire complex and the rolling valleys beyond. Monte Alban dates back to the 8th century BC and was inhabited by both Zapotec and Mixtec civilisations during its prime. Two opposing platforms sit at each end of the complex, with a collection of palaces, altars and a ball court making up the collection of structures in between. The vast green spaces between each of Monte Alban’s ruinous structures are both a calming influence and allow one to appreciate the scale of the city at the time of its construction. Due to the hilltop location, smooth greenery and extraordinary preservation of the buildings, parallels could be drawn between Monte Alban and the legendary ruins of Machu Picchu in Peru. There is also an enthralling museum at the entrance, displaying various artefacts recovered from Monte Alban during its excavation.

Relaxing in a clifftop pool at Hierve el Agua

60km to the southeast of Oaxaca travellers can find the mind boggling natural spectacle that is Hierve el Agua. Set amongst the emerald valley slopes is a geological formation consisting of shelves of rock that resemble the tumbling motion of a waterfall that has become frozen in time. From a distance, you would be forgiven for mistaking the sight for a genuine cascading body of water, such are the similarities in appearance. Formed through the gradual accumulation of minerals from the water’s high calcium carbonate levels, the falls have followed a similar process to that of stalagmites and stalactites over millennia. At the top of the “falls” are two pools, one natural and one artificial, which are arguably Hierve el Agua’s greatest draw. Whilst its name literally translates as ‘boiling water’, the temperature in the pools in fact sits pleasantly in the mid-20s (centigrade). This makes for a swimming experience that is both soothing and atmospheric, as gradually gliding through the warm waters takes swimmers to the cliff’s edge, offering panoramic views over the valley below. A solitary withered tree lies at the edge of the upper pool, accentuating the overall drama of the experience. There are changing rooms at the site along with a number of stalls selling simple snacks.

Learning about Zapotec culture at the ruins of Mitla

The second most important set of ruins in Oaxaca after Monte Alban, the structures of Mitla are found in the centre of a small municipality of the same name. Evidence suggests that Mitla was a religious site of colossal significance for the ancient Zapotecs, with priests carrying out numerous human sacrifices here during its prime, and an indication of the importance of death in Mesoamerican culture, as multiple carved tombs can be found throughout the site.The geometric wall carvings throughout the site are mesmeric but perhaps the most important feature of Mitla are the mosaics that cover some of the walls – a decorative feature that is unmatched everywhere else in Mexico. The mosaics depict the happenings in various myths and legends that were central to the Zapotec culture at the time.

Thanks to the dry conditions of Oaxaca state, the entire site has been remarkably well preserved. Another eye-catching feature of the ruins is the Church of San Pedro, rising from the crumbled base of the Zapotec site. Built by the Spanish during the 16th century directly on top of a pre-Columbian base in an oppressive manner akin to that of Coricancha in Cusco. Some of the greatest mosaics on site are found in the Grupo de las Columnas, a collection of larger buildings with giant columns for roof support. Mitla is a site of tangible historical significance, with a looming suggestion of the brutal culture of those that held it in such high esteem.

Admiring the gnarled spectacle of the Tule Tree

A popular stop on the way to Mitla is El Arbol de Tule (The Tule Tree), which sits within the grounds of a churchyard in the picturesque town of Santa Maria del Tule. The reason that the Tule Tree attracts so many visitors is due to its incredible squat shape, which has earned it the title of the widest tree on the planet – measuring 14.05m in diameter yet only 35.4m in height. At roughly 1,500 years old, the Tule Tree is almost as old as the nearby Zapotec ruins of Mitla. An incredible thought when considering the incredible array of cultures that have existed during the tree’s lifespan.

One of the primary draws of the Tule Tree is the marvelous way in which its gnarled bark seems to create images in front of your very eyes. Visitors claim to have seen the shapes of animals, human faces and mystical creatures within the twisted nooks and creases of the tree’s trunk. Originally believed to have been multiple trees that became entwined over time due to its exceptional size, DNA tests disproved this theory. It is difficult to believe that this natural wonder is still growing…

Joining the festivities during the Dia de los Muertos festival

Whilst it may seem logical for Mexico to be the focal point of the nation’s Day of the Dead celebrations, however the south of Mexico is considered by most to be the best place to experience the annual festival. Festivities in Oaxaca see the streets flood with locals paying respects to their passed loved ones by way of a joyous celebration of their lives. Whilst it may seem an odd way to respect the dead, the three day festival – which runs from October 31st to 2nd November – is held under the belief that ancestors return to the land of the living for three days each year and this is a chance to show your respects and enjoy their presence.

Highlights of the festival include visiting cemeteries at night time to breath in the peaceful respect shown by the locals’ shrines which glow with the soothing warmth of countless candles. During the day, locals dress up in all manner of costumes, often resembling skeletal figures, and parade through the city unannounced. Once evening falls, these parades morph into peaceful candlelit processions. The city is covered in gorgeously presented shrines during the entirety of the festival, adorned with beautiful flowers and gifts for the departed, including the iconic sugar skulls which have become so closely associated with Dia de los Muertos. It is an incredible experience that shows the city, and the Mexican people, in an entirely different light.

If you wish to visit Oaxaca during the festival please contact our Tailor-made Team.

Sampling the local produce at a mezcal tasting

Mezcal is the less renowned cousin of Mexico’s most famous spirit – tequila. Made using an extremely similar process, this agave-based liquor has slipped under most people’s radars until recently. It is a new world that is gradually being revealed to the rest of the planet and Oaxaca is at the centre of that world. Similar in taste, mezcal has more smoky flavour and actually tends to be more popular amongst locals. Mezcalerias are found scattered throughout the city, full of locals knocking back shot after shot of the moreish beverage.

Going to a mezcaleria in general is a fun experience that cannot be missed, but to truly appreciate the nuances of mezcal we recommend attending one of the tasting sessions on offer. During these sessions you will not only be treated to an array of different mezcals but also learn about the history behind the lesser known spirit and the process by which it is produced. Understanding the subtle intricacies of the distilling process helps one appreciate the underlying flavours and meticulous process that make mezcal so popular throughout Mexico.

If you wish to include a mezcal tasting on your Tailor-made trip to Mexico, simply contact a member of our Tailor-made Team.

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