Jess, one of our intrepid travellers, has always wanted to experience the sunrise at Tikal, Guatemala. Not a morning person, the early start wasn’t easy, but it was worth it!Â
I knew that Tikal was going to be beautiful in daylight. But, I needed some persuading when my alarm went off at 2.40 a.m. Quietly and sleepy, we lifted our sighing rucksacks onto our backs and trekked down the stairs to the hotel lobby, where we filed silently into the awaiting private bus. We were told it was an hour’s drive to Tikal, and they expected the roads to be very, very busy. It was the 21st of December, after all, the end of the Mayan calendar.
We tried to catch an hour’s sleep, bouncing as the bus hit the many holes in the road. As we rolled into the National Park, we sensed something was happening. On a typical day, the park would be empty at 3 am. But not today. Cars lined the sides of the road, and the car park was full.
We loaded our day bags, grabbed our torches and cameras, and met our guide. Groups surrounded us, eager to watch the sunrise, and we hurried on, eager to find that perfect spot.
A large group carrying candles added to the nervous excitement ahead of us. The dark hung around every corner. Without the torches, seeing where we were going would have been impossible. We had no idea what we were passing as we walked through the jungle. Time flew by. We had no idea how long we were walking for. We could feel our hearts beating, but it wasn’t until later, when the sun had risen, that we realised how far we had walked.
We rounded a corner, spilling out of the dark trees. Ahead of us were rows and rows of vans and cars, some with satellite dishes on top. A temple stood ahead, bathed in a red glow, lit up by floodlights beneath it, and tribal Mayan music was being played from somewhere, though where we couldn’t identify. The media were here. This only added to our excitement and desperation to see the sunrise.
By the time we reached Temple 4, the best place to see the sunrise, the viewing deck was full, and the sunrise was creeping in. Suddenly, the local guide felt a sense of urgency: We had to move and move fast to catch it. Already panting and feeling the humid heat, we headed off to location number two, The Lost Temple.
The silence was filled by the beautiful music, setting the tone for one of the most memorable moments of the tour. As light flooded the jungle, the sky was tinged with pink and more temples emerged. On top of them, hundreds of people stood, people catching a glimpse of the new Mayan world beginning.
In the light of day the steps seemed more uneven and each stride was taken more tentatively. The world didn’t feel any different, even at Tikal but it felt strangely surreal to have witnessed such a historic event even though no momentous change happened.
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