The Colombian Lost City – Ciudad Perdida

Few treks can take you from the vibrant Caribbean beaches into the lush, green cloud-forest mountains. But the Camino al Ciudad Perdida does! South America has its fair share of spectacular trekking options along the incredibly varied terrain of the Andes. Treks that are casually and impressively dotted with volcanoes, glaciers, forests, lakes, deserts and vast highland plains. They usually have a common requirement of a severe winter kit- a sub-zero sleeping bag and extra thick gloves. This one is different. This is the Lost City Trek.

Starting the Lost City Trek

We set off early to meet our fellow hikers. At just 5:30 am, the colourful streets of Santa Marta, on the northern coast of Colombia, were picture-perfect. I was dressed for walking, with a healthy layer of suncream and plenty of water. While waiting for others to arrive, I couldn’t help but take a quick stroll to the beach. I took a moment to dip my toes in the clear waters and sip on a tinto.  The perfect place to watch the last of the night’s party-goers half stumble, half salsa their way home. It’s such a stark contrast to how I am used to beginning a trek. Often high up in some Andean mountain village, likely at minus 5 or 10 degrees, trying to warm up. . Both have their charm, but I think I might have a new favourite…

The starting terrain of the Lost City Trek in Colombia and surrounding jungle

The jeeps had been loaded, our group packed into the back of them. I opened the windows wide open as the temperature was rapidly rising. And then, we were on our way, leaving the awakening city behind. As we drove out I could see the market streets were once again buzzing with life. Our guide, Magali, began to talk about the struggles faced by the people of the Sierra Nevada. 

Ecological equilibrium

A local guide must accompany each foreign party that enters the Sierra Nevada National Park. Guides come from one of four indigenous peoples of this region- the Kogi, Wiwa, Kankuamo and the Archuaco. Whilst communities have adapted to external pressures, all still firmly believe that the Sierra Nevada is the world’s beating heart.  Any loss of ecological equilibrium in one part of the world will result in imbalance elsewhere. The region has seen untold damage. Rivers run dry, ice caps melt, species disappear, and crops destroyed. Continual exploitation through mining and previous narcotic production are most likely to blame for the decline. Still, the communities deeply commit to restoring the balance through ritual practices and daily meditations.

Today, several NGOs are attempting to help the communities protect the Sierra Nevada from mining and cocaine production.  Since Colombia’s significant reopening to tourism in the last decade, this relatively new industry has also provided a considerable alternative to the illicit and damaging previous opportunities. Magali tells us that there is now zero cocaine production in the Sierra Nevada area and no cartel presence.  Many families now rely on tourism for their primary income.

Built around 800 CE, the Lost City was only rediscovered in 1973. Travellers have only recently started arriving in large numbers in this part of the country. 

Glimpses of beauty

We drive along the coast for about an hour through a few villages. We caught many glimpses of beautiful turquoise waters on our left. As the heat was rising, we were grateful for the breeze through the open sides of the jeep. Magali’s son is asleep on the bench next to us. He is getting a lift back to their house so that Magali can take us up into the mountains and to the Lost City. From the entrance to the park, the 4×4 traction of the jeeps come into their own. They haul us straight up the mountains along dusty, sunbaked tracks. After a slightly bumpy hour, we reach El Mamey, known locally as Machete Pelao.

 

Enjoying the views along the Lost City Trek

Lost in time

El Mamey is the closest village to the Lost City, reachable by road. Small, slow-paced and quaint, but simmering with excitement as the various groups of mainly backpackers line the village’s single street outside small eateries and living-room shop fronts. Magali organises a lovely calorie-packed lunch of fried fish and beans for us, and we re-pack our bags, apply an extra layer of sun-block and eagerly await her signal to depart. It may be in the 20th century, but somehow, I feel that I’m in the Aguas Calientes of Colombia’s Machu Picchu, some 40 years ago before it became as crowded and efficient as it is today- Machu Picchu, that is.  

The real trek begins

We start the sharp incline after a quick briefing, reminders of hats, plenty of water, sticking together, etc. As a relatively fit group, we found the pace to be comfortable. I wouldn’t want to go any faster with so much to see. The Lost City Trek is not considered a high-altitude trek; it starts at 140 metres above sea level and reaches a maximum of 1200m. The trek is about 45km and takes about 4-5 days. However, there are many ups and downs, and the sweltering heat can be challenging for some. Likewise, the trail can be very slippery and has many steep steps. Depending on rainfall, it can be necessary to cross rivers waist-deep.

 

Trekking to the Lost City – the steep inclines and surrounding jungle

Towards our goal

Over the next few days, as we wind our way through increasingly green landscapes and ascend towards our goal, which was as impressive as I had hoped, the importance and impact of a relatively small number of tourists here becomes clearer. This is not just a barren track to an archaeological site or stunning viewpoint; this is a fascinating track through the daily life of dozens of communities and a chance to walk past or through an incredibly proud, protected, albeit struggling civilisation. Magali grew up here herself. As we walked, Magali talked about the drug cartels and how, previously, families were forced into coca production. With few opportunities and the cartel’s brutal oppression, many had no other choice.

 

Passing through rural villages

As we move onwards, small wooden stalls are now set up with incredibly fresh orange juice, juicy and sweet slices of watermelon and pineapple, bananas and even chocolate. Others have set up small stations to show how their clothing, bags, and instruments are made from forest plants and how natural dyes are made from flowers and roots. What delighted me the most was that no one here sells Snickers and Twix, Coca Cola or Gatorade. Let’s hope it stays his way.

Accommodation on the Lost City Trek

The trail was relatively underdeveloped compared with the Inca Trail, the trails of El Chalten, or Torres del Paine. I was incredibly impressed with the standard of the campsites on the route to the Lost City. The tour operators, local government, and local communities have agreed that local communities organise everything with support from operators as required.

The campsites here are not just fields with some portaloos but solid wooden buildings with surprisingly comfortable bunk beds and hammock spaces. Each campsite has refreshing cold showers to cool down after a hot day’s hiking. It also has a well-functioning eating hall, a small shop, and evening electricity (generator run). In coordination with the tour operators, a kitchen team of cooks, cleaners, and servers will cater to all who arrive at the campsite daily. 

 

Food served on the Lost City Trek.

A great example of Sustainable Tourism?

This here, is a great example of sustainable tourism. How the local community has come together and developed something to show the world, but where they also benefit themselves.   

The final view of the Lost City

Colombia is a stunning country. It has some of the friendliest and most amazing people you will ever meet as a traveller. However it also has a painful past, and while it is important to understand a country’s history, no matter how bleak, there are too many examples of tourism focusing on that dark past in Colombia, rather than remind the adventurous and exploring traveller of just how much positive effect tourism can have, both for the visitor and the visited. I think it’s wonderful that the people of Sierra Nevada have embraced this idea. I sincerely hope that they can keep this up, also as they naturally will have to tackle the issues that come through an increasing popularity and larger numbers of visitors. 

Landscape views of Colombia from the Lost City Trek

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